In many ways the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and themselves to our judgement. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must face is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is probably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so.
But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations, the new needs friends. Last night I experienced something new. An extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and it's maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core.
In the past I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gustov's famous motto "anyone can cook", but I realized only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere.
But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations, the new needs friends. Last night I experienced something new. An extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and it's maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core.
In the past I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gustov's famous motto "anyone can cook", but I realized only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere.
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